Emma says it’s an incredible feeling: ”I gave it a shot. I was amazing. I was an incredible surfer. I also think it’s the greatest feeling you can ever have. You’re floating on the water. You really are.”
Liam Hemsworth
Liam says the danger makes it even more thrilling: ”The fear of dying? That’s part of the fun of it. The adrenaline you get from surfing big waves. I’ve seen a shark before. You get the worst wipeouts when you’re not expecting it.”
